Applecross and Torridon - Unspoilt Landscapes
UK Tours
Paul Gallagher
For so many years now, and normally at this juncture during the summer season, my mind drifts off to other places. Mornings were you can see your breath as you close the front door behind you, the car heating is turned up and the sun has barely reached the horizon. A little while later the sun is higher and shining right into my eyes as I lower the sun visor and head north.
For as long as I can remember, the true occurrence of me bidding farewell to the summer with its barbecues and garden gatherings, is to visit an old friend as the summer greens give way to gold and the morning skies are gilt. Scotland beckons me every year. Along with the prodigious change in the colours of the landscape, it is the noiselessness of the glens and woodlands that tempt me, and each year it feels incomparable to me.
On one particular wandering I was heading down the glen past Loch Glascarnoch and Loch Dorma were the evening was bathed in an early setting sun and all around me was glowing. I stopped before arriving in Ullapool at the head of the Corrieshalloch Gorge and opened my car door to the silence and nip in the air of the Highlands. Abhainn Droma is the river the drains the waters of Loch Droma which eventually becomes the Falls of Measach that cascade into the glacial melt water depths of the Corrishalloch Gorge.
Staying away from the dangers of the gorge itself, I opted for the gentle and graceful upper cascades that pass over a flat, plate-like rocks that form a series of little waterfalls. The rock surfaces are verdant green as the shallow waters always allow ample light to support a healthy algae which flourishes which makes them spectacularly slippery! For this reason I wisely chose to work close to the ground, the waters running towards me and over my boots .
From here the algae reminded of the greens of the summer that had passed whilst all my surroundings were giving way to the arrival of shorter, colder days, warmed only by the autumnal colours of the larch trees rooted on the rivers edge. Soon afterwards I packed my bag in complete shadow of the surrounding mountains and headed into town. It was good to be back.